What's the price to get a remoter starter installed?
- Remote starter installations vary for several
different reasons and literally differs from vehicle to
vehicle. Most cars from the mid-1990's are equipped with
anti-theft systems in the keys and/or tumbler, which adds
the need to use a module to work with those systems to
actually allow it to start. Also from the 2000's and up,
there's the increasing requirement to wire in the power
locks because the factory alarm system is tied it with them,
and the alarm may sound and/or disable the engine when the
remote start is triggered. One other variable is on some
vehicles is the need to have a second or a third key. This
can be a requirement as on some vehicles like Ford and
Chryslers require two keys to unlock the programming in the
vehicle so we can program in the security module into the
car. This is unfortunate added cost if vehicle only came
with one key. This key also cannot be a copy but a new key
needs to be cut and programmed to the vehicle at a dealership, where it
typically costs over $100. For an accurate quote on getting
a remote starter installed in your car, give us a call at
905-732-7168 with the year, make and model of your vehicle.
What's the price to get a keyless entry system installed?
- The price of a keyless entry system actually depend on
the vehicle. For keyless entry, some can be easily done with
a 1-wire data connection, others have to be manually and
individually wired, and on some vehicles, a data module is
required. If the car has a factory alarm, than we need to
wire in our module to it to arm and disarm it. If your car
has manual locks, than it's needed to add actuators to each
door which is a significantly more involved and costly job
compared to a vehicle equipped with power locks. Even some
vehicles require a module to allow it to work. For an
accurate quote on getting a remote starter installed in your
car, give us a call at 905-732-7168 with the year, make and
model of your vehicle. Please mention if you have a vehicle
with manual locks.
What's the price to get a car alarm installed?
- The price of an alarm depends on the vehicle and what
security options you would like to use. Although it can be
done without, we highly suggest to get the door locks tied
in with the alarm for function, convenience and piece of
mind; having an alarm isn't very effective if the vehicle
was accidentally left unlocked. With the locks tied it, the
unit locks the car and sets the alarm at the same time.
Also, you can get additional protection as door, hood and
truck switches, shock sensors, glass break sensors,
proximity sensors and even wire in a immobilizer. For an
accurate quote on getting an alarm installed in your car or
truck, give us a call at 905-732-7168 with the year, make
and model of your vehicle and what options you would like us
How long does it
take to install?
- That truly depends on the vehicle. Some can be done in
a little over an hour, other 3 to 4 hours. It depends on
what is required and what options you have chosen. Also,
some vehicles can unexpectedly give us a hard time when
programming in the security modules. We typically like to
give a 2.5 to 3.5 hour window per vehicle.
Do I have to make
- For stereo installations like head units and satellite
radio it's normally not necessary, but since we work by
appointments, walk-ins for amp and sub installs, speakers
and remote starters and such are difficult to fit in because
of the amount of time they take. It would be suggested to
call rather than stopping by to see if there are any
cancellations for that day.
How many keys do I need to bring with me for the
- Most cars we only need the one key, but on most 2000's
and up Chrysler, Ford and Mazda vehicles, 2 original keys
are absolutely necessary. On these cars, the way the
anti-theft system works, we have to unlock the computer and
program in the needed security module to be accepted as a
new key. Now, these need to be 2 original keys, and no
copies. For these cars, the security module literally gets
programmed to be recognized as an additional key. Each key
has a chip inside of it, and each is unique. If we are using
a copied key, the computer sees that we are just putting in
the same key in twice and won't work. If your car only came
with 1 key, you will need to get a new one cut and brought
to the dealership to get hooked to their computer and
programmed in. This service typically starts at over $100
and up to $300-$400, depending on the manufacturer. This is
a common unforeseen cost that can get added to the total
installation cost of getting a remote starter installed.
Do I really need to have a security bypass module?
- Yes you do. Even if the car doesn't have a factory
alarm, starting around 1993 and mostly standard come 2000,
car manufacturers started to implement systems so that it's
not possible to start the car without a key, as to try to
eliminate the possibility of "hot-wiring" a car. Without the
security module, the anti-theft system will think the car is
trying to be stolen, and not allow the car to start,
effectively rendering your remote starter useless.
What's the range of your remote starters, keyless entry and
- The models we carry offers a variety of different
ranges. The basic 4-button unit gets a range of
approximately 650 feet and the the LCD fob gets a range of
1000 feet. Our units come standard with the extended range
antenna, which get a range of up to 2000 feet. There are
also models available with the ability of transmitting up to
1 Mile. The range of course will vary depending on the
weather conditions, RF interference and objects that the
signal may have to travel through to reach the receiver.
I need a new remote, or would like to purchase an additional
remote. Is that possible?
- Yes that's no problem. On the units we sell, they do
come with 2 remotes, but if you would like a 3rd remote, or
you would like to replace a broken or even a lost remote, we
carry and can get remotes for units we do and have carried
in the past, as well as some OEM remotes.
Can you install a remote starter in a stick shift/manual
- Unfortunately at this time we do not. When it comes to
a manual transmission vehicle, there is no fault-proof
safeguard against the car being able to start while it's in
gear. We do know of places that we can suggest if you wish
to get one installed.
you install a remote starter in a diesel?
- Yes we can. We carry remote starters that have a
diesel mode that will allow the glow plugs to ready before
the vehicle starts.
Do you carry remote starters that can be set to start at a
- Unfortunately not. This option seems to have
disappeared from the market several years ago. Even the top
model remote starters do not have this option. They offer an
LCD readout on the remote that will display the vehicles
temperature, but you still are required to manually start
it. The only similar option is the winter/timer mode, where
you can set the vehicle to automatically start every 3
Can I get my factory keyless entry and trunk tied in?
- That is no problem on vehicles equipped with power
locks and a power trunk. Vehicles with a manual cable-pull
trunk would require the additional install of an electric
My car doesn't have power locks. What's involved to get
- Putting power locks in a car that doesn't have one
isn't a simple, or in some cases, even possible job.
Actuators need to be installed in each door, tied to the
manual locking system, and wires ran out each door to the
main control unit. There are a few cases where there just
simply isn't enough room to fit an aftermarket actuator
behind the door panel.
I've got a van with power side doors, can you tie those in
- Yes and no. With the standard units, they are equipped
with only 4 buttons, and only 1 of those is an auxiliary to
be used as we wish. With only 1 button to work with, we can
only wire it in to control a single power sliding door.
I've got a remote starter in my car, but I would like it
removed and put into a different vehicle.
- That is not a problem. Of course there is a fee for
the removal, but ideally it would be best to leave it in the
vehicle. If the reason you would like it removed is because
you are planning on selling your vehicle, it does add an
additional and attractive feature to potential buyers.
Despite selling quality units, they don't last forever. It
would be unfortunate to move a remote starter over and have
it fail shortly after, and now needing to purchase a new
unit and possibly paying for another installation. The
remote starter unit is only a small portion of the total
cost of getting one installed. You do save a bit more if you
coincidentally can keep the same security bypass module as
well, but the disadvantages outweigh the savings, and will
more likely cost more money in the long run.
My remote doesn't working. I think it needs new batteries.
- Batteries will last about 2 years, depending on use of
course. Since they're inexpensive to purchase, it doesn't
hurt to change them out. Even if the light on the remote
flashes fairly bright, it doesn't mean that the batteries
have enough power to transmit a signal to your car. if the
new batteries still don't fix it, at that point it can be
several problems; the remote start safety switch has been
flipped, the unit is stuck in valet mode and needs to be
reset, a popped fuse. A common problem with the remote
starter not working is the hood pin is either damaged or
corroded from the harsh winter conditions. It would also be
just simple that the remote is defective and no longer
functioning. Come by and we can quickly diagnose the problem
on the spot.
I can unlock the doors, but the remote starter doesn't work.
- That is a common problem that tends to occur after a
few years from a corroded or damaged hood pin. On most
remote starters there's a switch installed to be able to
turn off the remote start. This is typically used for
mechanics or anyone working on your vehicle so that the
remote starter doesn't accidentally get triggered. It also
happens that the unit may be stuck in valet mode and needs
to be reset.
My remote starter turns the car over, but it doesn't start.
- The common problem with this is that we need to
increase the cranking time for the remote starter. As the
weather gets colder, and as vehicles age, they need to be
cranked longer to catch and start. Remote starters don't
compensate for this, but they do have a set maximum cranking
time that can be changed, and more likely just needs to be
extended to compensate.
- Other possibilities is that it could be a problem with the
security module. On some cars when it thinks it's being
stolen, the security system kicks in and cuts fuel and/or
spark. In this case, all that is typically needed is just to
reprogram the security module. Some older units lose their
programming if the battery has been disconnected or drained.
In rare instance, the security module is defective and needs
to be replaced.
My remote starter starts the car, but keeps cranking for
several seconds, than turns the car off.
- This is almost always a problem with the unit not
sensing that the car has started. Some units tap into the
tachometer wire to sense that the car has started, while
others can or need to be programmed to sense the car running
through the voltage of the power wire. For some cars, we
need to run a wire into the engine bay and tap it into the
distributor, so that can get corroded over time, or even
accidentally disconnected. If the unit isn't using a tach
wire, it may just need to be reprogrammed for voltage sense.
I remote start the vehicle and the lights are on, but the
vehicle isn't running.
- This just means that the remote starter worked, and it
thinks it's running, but the motor didn't catch on crank and
didn't start. This is typically a crank-time issue, where we
need to extend the cranking time of the remote starter so
that it properly catches and starts.
I've got a GM, and the aftermarket remote locks the car, but
doesn't unlock it, or visa-versa.
- GM vehicles require a module to interface with the
factory power locks. All that needs to be done is to
reprogram the module, or in the rare instance, replace it.
What's needed to put an aftermarket radio in my
- It actually depends on the vehicle. Typically what is
needed is a trim kit to allow an aftermarket radio to fit
and mount in your factory radio's pocket, and a wiring
harness adaptor to connect to the factory radio harness. The
wiring harness is always required. Although it's possible to
cut and splice directly into it, it's a highly discouraged
practice for the sake that it makes changing radios much
more difficult, and it also makes the installation itself
more difficult. It's not recommended to forgo the harness
just to save a few bucks. However, some of the newer GM and
Chryslers, a module may be required. Depending on the GM,
the box is solely used to keep the chimes and a standard
harness can use used if you wish you sacrifice the chimes.
On later models, without the module, the vehicle loses some
function and will cause the BCM to throw a code. They are
also needed if the vehicle uses a factory amp and/or uses
the OnStar system. On most Chryslers, a module is needed
since the radio doesn't use a standard 12v system so the
module is required to give the new radio the necessary power
and switched 12v.
- The trim kit is needed for most vehicles, but there are
some exceptions where some vehicles use the standard DIN
mounting system like in Volkswagens, some BMW's, Mazda and
Kia/Hyundai's. Also some Nissan and Honda's can use the
factory radio mounting hardware if you're replacing a
factory double DIN with an aftermarket double DIN unit.
- An added requirement on most GM, Chrysler, select Fords
and European vehicles is an FM antenna adapter to allow the
FM antenna to plug into the aftermarket radio, otherwise you
cannot receive any radio stations.
I've got a GM/Chrysler and I'm told I need this expensive
module to be able to upgrade my radio? How come?
Some of the newer GM and Chryslers
require a module. Depending on the GM, the box is solely
used to keep the chimes and a standard harness can use used
if you wish you sacrifice the chimes. On later models,
without the module, the vehicle loses some function and will
cause the BCM to throw a code when it does a systems check.
They are also needed if the vehicle uses a factory amp
and/or uses the OnStar system. On most Chryslers, a module
is needed since the radio doesn't use a standard 12v system
so the module is required to give the new radio the
necessary power and switched 12v accessory.
I would like to replace my speakers, is that
- Absolutely! We typically carry the most popular
standard and odd-sized speakers, including 3.5", 5x7", 6x8"
and 4x10" speakers. The only concern is actually the depth,
specifically in the door to be able to be clear of the
movement of the window and it's mechanisms.
What options are there for getting better sound quality?
- Depends on the car and how old it is. Usually we
recommend to upgrade the radio first. Upgrading from the
factory radio usually shows a significant improvement,
mostly because having higher powered outputs as well as a
better quality DAC. We find that most vehicles from around
the mid-2000's and newer come with some fairly good quality
speakers and a new head unit truly wakes them up. Older
vehicles typically use cheaper speakers, with a smaller
magnet and/or a cheap, some even paper, cone. At that point,
it would be highly suggested to replace and upgrade the
speakers. In the vehicle is equipped with a factory
amplifier, along with their fairly common failure rate as
the vehicles age, quality is usually better when the factory
amp is bypassed and ran using the built-in amplifier of the
new head unit. From there, the ideal setup for sound clarity
would be to run a separate amplifier and setting up
component speakers with tweeters and crossovers. This is the
more expensive way to go, not only for the need for
additional equipment, but to truly get the quality of this
setup, you will also need to invest in higher-end speakers.
- Once the speakers are setup, you will need a subwoofer to
specifically take care of the low frequencies that the
speakers can't properly produce.
- In the end, the quality of the music comes down to the
quality of the source. Spending the money on a system that
uses a separate amp and getting a set of high-end component
speakers with tweeters will be overkill if all you're doing
is running mp3's of an iPod or listening to FM radio, cause
it won't do it justice.
Can I get get an amp and sub installed in my vehicle?
- Not a problem. We sell subwoofers, amplifiers and
boxes too. As well, we sell all the wiring necessary to do
the installation, even if you want to do your own
installation. This is a fairly easy job if you already have
an aftermarket deck in the car. You can get amplifiers that
can tap into the speaker lines using "line-level inputs" or
you can also get low-level converter boxes to do this job.
Although it's not an ideal option compared to using proper
pre-outs, it is a more efficient setup. Also on some factory
stereos, they lower the bass level as the volume increases.
You can get low-level converter boxes that compensate for
limited on space. What can I do for a sub?
- There's actually a few options. Pioneer, Kenwood and a
few other companies make slim subwoofers that can use as
little as 0.15 cubic feet of space for an 8" and 0.45cu-ft
for 10" and larger. We can also get small boxes designed
specifically for those subwoofers. MTX also makes what they
call their "ThunderForm" boxes. They are form-fitted boxes
designed to take us as little room as possible. They are
typically available for the more popular pick up trucks and
SUV, but they also have a few options for cars as well. They
are an ideal option and can be purchased with optional
subwoofers and/or amplifiers, but the downside is their
significant cost of those boxes.
wiring do I need for my amp?
- That actually depends on the length of cable you need.
Saying the average run of wires is about 16 feet, 8 gauge is
good for about 100 watts (RMS), 4 gauge is good for about
600 watts (RMS) and 2 gauge up to 1400 watts RMS.
My factory radio doesn't have an auxiliary input, can you
- If you do look around the internet, some radios have
the ability to be hacked and modified with an auxiliary
input, this isn't something we do. We do however sell
adapters that interface with most factory systems. Call us
at 905-732-7168 with the make and model of your car, and we
can let you know what options you have available.
I want to use my iPod with my factory radio, is it possible?
- Yes it is! We do sell adapters that interface
with most factory systems. Call us at 905-732-7168 with the
make and model of your car, and we can let you know what
options you have available.
I want to run an amp and sub with my factory radio, is it
- It is, but it's not ideal. You
can get amplifiers that can tap into the speaker lines using
"line-level inputs" or you can also get low-level converter
boxes to do this job. Although it's not an ideal option
compared to using proper pre-outs, it is a more efficient
setup. Also on some factory stereos, they lower the bass
level as the volume increases. You can get low-level
converter boxes that compensate for this.
Can you install Sirius/XM satellite radio systems?
- Not a problem. We have several different installation
methods to suit your need, budget and vehicle. Our popular
choice is a hard-wired setup where we hide all the wires and
use an in-line FM direct adapter. Since most factory radios
do not have an auxiliary input, the other option is through
the FM radio. Because of possible FM interference causing
either significant static to loss of clear audio, especially
when travelling, the in-line adapter makes the satellite
radio signal a priority for a much more stable signal. On
GM, Chrysler, European cars and some Fords, additional
antenna adapters are necessary.
My factory CD player doesn't work anymore, can that
- Unfortunately that's not something we can fix. Some
dealerships will take them in to get them fixed, but they're
typically sent out to a third-party company to get repaired.
My CD player doesn't want to eject my CD, is there a way to
take it out?
- Not likely. A few aftermarket CD players will have reset
options, but for ejecting a stuck CD, especially if the unit
is no longer working properly, is rare for that to work. On
both factory and aftermarket players, you can try unplugging
the unit and plugging them back in, sometimes that does the
trick. You can send the units out for service, but unless
it's covered under warranty, there will more likely be a
charge for that service. Even then, it can take months to
receive your discs back. The quickest option would be to
totally disassemble the unit to take the disc out. This
would normally be destructive since putting the disc is
quite buried in the unit and putting it back together
properly is a science in itself. At this point, depending on
the age of the player, it may be wise to look at getting a
replacement CD player regardless since it may be on it's way
Someone had upgraded the radio upgraded in my car but they
cut the factory harness.
- This is one of the reasons why we highly recommend to use
an adapter harness when installing an aftermarket radio
because it makes changing it afterwards a job more complex
than it needs to be. This is unfortunately was done by the
previous owner only to save a few bucks. Ideally we would
recommend going to a wreckers and get a factory harness to
reattach and fix what was done, but we also can order
aftermarket harnesses with factory connectors that would do
the same job. If you're looking at getting a new aftermarket
radio installed by us anyway, we have resources that tell us
what wires are what so we can attach the new radio harness
to the cut factory harness. It's not an ideal solution, but
we can definitely make it work.
I'm not getting any sounds in some/all of my speakers.
- Could be a few things. The common problem is usually just
blown speakers. If that's not the case, the next step would
be to check the wiring if the head unit and/or the speakers
have been replaced. One thing that does happen is that the
wires running through the door harness may be worn, cut or
broken. If you're running the system through a factory
amplifier, there's a good chance that the amp is failing. A
good sign of this is if you've lost a pair of speakers at
the same time. If you're running an external amplifier with
component speakers, it's a lot of extra work to trace back
any problems, especially if you've got a crossover and
tweeters wired in as well.
My vehicle has a factory amplifier and I'm not getting any
sound in some/all of my speakers.
- If you're running the system through a factory amplifier,
there's a good chance that the amp is failing. A good sign
of this is if you've lost a pair of speakers at the same
time. Some vehicles sometime use a built-in amp for the
front speakers and an external amp for the rear speakers, or
some will use 3 separate amps, one for the front, one for
the rear, and one for the factory subwoofer. Some vehicles
will use a single amplifier to run all the speakers plus the
My aftermarket radio is saying "PROTECT", what does
- What that means is that there is a short somewhere in the
speaker system and the deck turns off to protect itself.
This could be a blown speaker or typically it's a short in
the wires for the speakers. Although it's rare, on the newer
GM that require a module to keep the door chimes this could
be a defect in the box, but first thing would be to recheck
the wiring for the speakers, both on the side of the radio,
and if you have replaced the speakers, the wiring on those
as well. A common problem is that they're improperly taped,
where the tape has some off, even slightly, where bare wire
is being exposed. It could be grounding to another wire or
part of the metal chassis behind the dash. This problem
could be in the door and being exposed to moisture or even
getting caught on the window mechanism. Another thing that
most would tape up the entire harness to keep it together
and organized, but sometimes this will pull the wires
together too tight. This can definitely be the case if the
wires have been soldered. Although this is good practice,
the solder creates sharp points that may actually puncture
any tape or shrink wrap that they've been sealed in.
My amp keeps on blowing fuses on the power line, what's
- If it's blowing fuses as soon as it's being plugged in
and/or turned on, than it would be suggested to check for
shorts in the power wire or even a blown speaker where the
coil is seized. If the system runs but blows fuses every few
days or weeks, than it's one of 2 things; either an
insufficient ground or the size of the power wire is too
small. In either case, they are causing a restriction on the
flow of power. What ends up happening is because power is
being restricted, and because your amp requires what it
needs, it naturally just draws more and more from the
electrical system eventually blows a fuse.
- To fix this, first check the ground. It should be bolted
down to a solid point to bare metal and the ground wire
needs to be as short as possible. If there's paint on the
metal where the ground is mounted, it needs to be striped
for a proper metal-to-metal contact and not a screw for a
trim panel or the like.
- Secondly, check the power terminal at the battery. It
needs to be properly connected and bolted down. A common
problem is a ring terminal that's too large for the bolt on
the positive post on the battery and it's barely making
- And finally, check the power and ground wires themselves.
It's possible that the wire you choose isn't the right size
for the job. Saying the average run of wires is about 16
feet, 8 gauge is good for about 100 watts (RMS), 4 gauge is
good for about 600 watts (RMS) and 2 gauge up to 1400 watts
RMS. The quality of the wire matters as well. Cheap cable
can have less wires in it. A cheap 4 gauge cable, although
may be the same physical diameter as a good quality one, can
actually have less actual wires in it, comparing to a 6 or
even an 8 gauge. Going with a larger cable than needed not
only ensures you have enough power for the job, but also
leaves room to expand if you wish you upgrade your system,
but saves you the work of re-running your power and ground
I am constantly blowing up subwoofers, what's going on?
- Usually it's either 2 things, too much power, or a bad
setup. Your subwoofer is only capable of handling so much
power, so of course running too much power will cook your
sub. This is really only possible if your amplifier is able
to put out more power than the sub can handle. This isn't a
bad thing; having a more powerful amp means it's not working
as hard and running more efficiently, but also means there's
no safeguards against turning the gain up too much and
blowing up the sub. Check the RMS power ratings on both the
amp and sub to make sure what they are able to handle.
- Secondly, bad audio can actually break a subwoofer. What
ends up happening is that there is too much clipping or
distortion. Normally this is when the head unit is set to
such options as "Loudness", "Bass Boost" and other areas in
the audio settings and/or EQ where the bass has been turned
up significantly (ie: "Bass +15"). This could also happen
when an improperly set Low Pass Filter (LPF) where the sub
is getting audio signals that it can't produce. Setting up
the head unit properly is necessary for not only an
enjoyable listening experience, but to keep your equipment
working for a long time.
My satellite radio sound quality is poor and/or there is a
lot of static.
- Most satellite radio setups use the built-in FM
transmitter. They are setup by default to use stations low
on the band, like 88.1MHz and such. On most satellite radio
units, you can program it to use any station on the FM band.
For the best reception, you want to use an FM station that
isn't being used by a radio station. If you use a frequency
that is being used, it will interfere with your satellite
radio and severely affect the quality of your music. Also,
your chosen station may work well in your area, but once you
travel a considerable distance, that frequency may actually
be used by a radio station and you will need to change the
station that the FM transmitter on the satellite radio, as
well as changing the stations on your radio to match. This
can be quite annoying for those travelling thousands of
kilometers through highly populated areas.
- One fix for this is to use the in-line FM direct adapter.
This literally wires in the FM transmitter in to your
vehicles antenna giving priority to the output of the
satellite radio. A less popular option is to use a cassette
- Ideally, a hard-wired direct input solution going through
the radio's auxiliary input or dedicated satellite radio
input on the radio. This will not only give you undisturbed
listening pleasure, but also the highest quality audio
quality attainable from the satellite radio system.
- For more information on audio options, see the Sirius
information page here: