Frequently Asked Questions
 
Installation - Remote Starters, Keyless Entry & Alarms
  1. What's the price to get a remoter starter installed?
  2. What's the price to get a keyless entry installed?
  3. What's the price to get a car alarm installed?
  4. How long does it take to install?
  5. Do I have to make an appointment?
  6. How many keys do I need to bring with me for the installation?
  7. Do I need to have a security bypass module?
  8. What's the range of your remote starters, keyless entry and alarm remotes?
  9. I need a new remote, or would like to purchase an additional remote. Is that possible?
  10. Can you install a remote starter in a stick shift/manual transmission vehicle?
  11. Can you install a remote starter in a diesel?
  12. Do you carry remote starters that can be set to start at a certain temperature?
  13. Can I get my factory keyless entry and trunk popper tied in?
  14. My car doesn't have power locks. What's involved to get keyless entry?
  15. I've got a van with power side doors, can you tie those in as well?
  16. I've got a remote starter in my car, but I would like it removed and put into a different vehicle.
Help - Remote Starters, Keyless Entry & Alarms
  1. My remote isn't working. I think it needs new batteries.
  2. I can unlock the doors, but the remote starter doesn't work
  3. My remote starter turns the car over, but it doesn't start.
  4. My remote starter starts the car, but keeps cranking for several seconds, than turns the car off.
  5. I remote start the vehicle and the lights are on, but the vehicle isn't running.
  6. I've got a GM, and the aftermarket remote locks the car, but doesn't unlock it, or visa-versa.
Installation - Car Audio
  1. What's needed to put an aftermarket radio in my vehicle?
  2. I've got a GM/Chrysler and I'm told I need this expensive module to be able to upgrade my radio? How come?
  3. I would like to replace my speakers, is that possible?
  4. What options are there for getting better sound quality?
  5. Can I get get an amp and sub installed in my vehicle?
  6. I'm limited on space. What can I do for a sub and box?
  7. What size wiring do I need for my amp?
  8. My factory radio doesn't have an auxiliary input, can you add one?
  9. I want to use my iPod with my factory radio, is it possible?
  10. I want to run an amp and sub with my factory radio, is it possible?
  11. Can you install Sirius/XM satellite radio systems?
Help - Car Audio
  1. My factory CD player doesn't work anymore, can that be fixed?
  2. My factory CD player doesn't want to eject my CD, is there a way to take it out?
  3. Someone had upgraded the radio upgraded in my car but they cut the factory harness.
  4. I'm not getting any sounds in some/all of my speakers.
  5. My vehicle has a factory amplifier and I'm not getting any sound in some/all of my speakers.
  6. My aftermarket radio is saying "PROTECT", what does that mean?
  7. My amp keeps on blowing fuses, what's wrong?
  8. I am constantly blowing up subwoofers, what's going on?
  9. My satellite radio sound quality is poor and/or there is a lot of static.

 


Frequently Asked Questions
 

What's the price to get a remoter starter installed?
- Remote starter installations vary for several different reasons and literally differs from vehicle to vehicle. Most cars from the mid-1990's are equipped with anti-theft systems in the keys and/or tumbler, which adds the need to use a module to work with those systems to actually allow it to start. Also from the 2000's and up, there's the increasing requirement to wire in the power locks because the factory alarm system is tied it with them, and the alarm may sound and/or disable the engine when the remote start is triggered. One other variable is on some vehicles is the need to have a second or a third key. This can be a requirement as on some vehicles like Ford and Chryslers require two keys to unlock the programming in the vehicle so we can program in the security module into the car. This is unfortunate added cost if vehicle only came with one key. This key also cannot be a copy but a new key needs to be cut and programmed to the vehicle at a dealership, where it typically costs over $100. For an accurate quote on getting a remote starter installed in your car, give us a call at 905-732-7168 with the year, make and model of your vehicle.

What's the price to get a keyless entry system installed?
- The price of a keyless entry system actually depend on the vehicle. For keyless entry, some can be easily done with a 1-wire data connection, others have to be manually and individually wired, and on some vehicles, a data module is required. If the car has a factory alarm, than we need to wire in our module to it to arm and disarm it. If your car has manual locks, than it's needed to add actuators to each door which is a significantly more involved and costly job compared to a vehicle equipped with power locks. Even some vehicles require a module to allow it to work. For an accurate quote on getting a remote starter installed in your car, give us a call at 905-732-7168 with the year, make and model of your vehicle. Please mention if you have a vehicle with manual locks.

What's the price to get a car alarm installed?
-
The price of an alarm depends on the vehicle and what security options you would like to use. Although it can be done without, we highly suggest to get the door locks tied in with the alarm for function, convenience and piece of mind; having an alarm isn't very effective if the vehicle was accidentally left unlocked. With the locks tied it, the unit locks the car and sets the alarm at the same time. Also, you can get additional protection as door, hood and truck switches, shock sensors, glass break sensors, proximity sensors and even wire in a immobilizer. For an accurate quote on getting an alarm installed in your car or truck, give us a call at 905-732-7168 with the year, make and model of your vehicle and what options you would like us to secure.

How long does it take to install?
- That truly depends on the vehicle. Some can be done in a little over an hour, other 3 to 4 hours. It depends on what is required and what options you have chosen. Also, some vehicles can unexpectedly give us a hard time when programming in the security modules. We typically like to give a 2.5 to 3.5 hour window per vehicle.

Do I have to make an appointment?
- For stereo installations like head units and satellite radio it's normally not necessary, but since we work by appointments, walk-ins for amp and sub installs, speakers and remote starters and such are difficult to fit in because of the amount of time they take. It would be suggested to call rather than stopping by to see if there are any cancellations for that day.

How many keys do I need to bring with me for the installation?
- Most cars we only need the one key, but on most 2000's and up Chrysler, Ford and Mazda vehicles, 2 original keys are absolutely necessary. On these cars, the way the anti-theft system works, we have to unlock the computer and program in the needed security module to be accepted as a new key. Now, these need to be 2 original keys, and no copies. For these cars, the security module literally gets programmed to be recognized as an additional key. Each key has a chip inside of it, and each is unique. If we are using a copied key, the computer sees that we are just putting in the same key in twice and won't work. If your car only came with 1 key, you will need to get a new one cut and brought to the dealership to get hooked to their computer and programmed in. This service typically starts at over $100 and up to $300-$400, depending on the manufacturer. This is a common unforeseen cost that can get added to the total installation cost of getting a remote starter installed.

Do I really need to have a security bypass module?
- Yes you do. Even if the car doesn't have a factory alarm, starting around 1993 and mostly standard come 2000, car manufacturers started to implement systems so that it's not possible to start the car without a key, as to try to eliminate the possibility of "hot-wiring" a car. Without the security module, the anti-theft system will think the car is trying to be stolen, and not allow the car to start, effectively rendering your remote starter useless.

What's the range of your remote starters, keyless entry and alarm remotes?
- The models we carry offers a variety of different ranges. The basic 4-button unit gets a range of approximately 650 feet and the the LCD fob gets a range of 1000 feet. Our units come standard with the extended range antenna, which get a range of up to 2000 feet. There are also models available with the ability of transmitting up to 1 Mile. The range of course will vary depending on the weather conditions, RF interference and objects that the signal may have to travel through to reach the receiver.

I need a new remote, or would like to purchase an additional remote. Is that possible?
- Yes that's no problem. On the units we sell, they do come with 2 remotes, but if you would like a 3rd remote, or you would like to replace a broken or even a lost remote, we carry and can get remotes for units we do and have carried in the past, as well as some OEM remotes.

Can you install a remote starter in a stick shift/manual transmission vehicle?
- Unfortunately at this time we do not. When it comes to a manual transmission vehicle, there is no fault-proof safeguard against the car being able to start while it's in gear. We do know of places that we can suggest if you wish to get one installed.

Can you install a remote starter in a diesel?
- Yes we can. We carry remote starters that have a diesel mode that will allow the glow plugs to ready before the vehicle starts.

Do you carry remote starters that can be set to start at a certain temperature?
- Unfortunately not. This option seems to have disappeared from the market several years ago. Even the top model remote starters do not have this option. They offer an LCD readout on the remote that will display the vehicles temperature, but you still are required to manually start it. The only similar option is the winter/timer mode, where you can set the vehicle to automatically start every 3 hours.

Can I get my factory keyless entry and trunk tied in?
-
That is no problem on vehicles equipped with power locks and a power trunk. Vehicles with a manual cable-pull trunk would require the additional install of an electric solenoid.

My car doesn't have power locks. What's involved to get keyless entry?
- Putting power locks in a car that doesn't have one isn't a simple, or in some cases, even possible job. Actuators need to be installed in each door, tied to the manual locking system, and wires ran out each door to the main control unit. There are a few cases where there just simply isn't enough room to fit an aftermarket actuator behind the door panel.

I've got a van with power side doors, can you tie those in as well?
- Yes and no. With the standard units, they are equipped with only 4 buttons, and only 1 of those is an auxiliary to be used as we wish. With only 1 button to work with, we can only wire it in to control a single power sliding door.

I've got a remote starter in my car, but I would like it removed and put into a different vehicle.
- That is not a problem. Of course there is a fee for the removal, but ideally it would be best to leave it in the vehicle. If the reason you would like it removed is because you are planning on selling your vehicle, it does add an additional and attractive feature to potential buyers. Despite selling quality units, they don't last forever. It would be unfortunate to move a remote starter over and have it fail shortly after, and now needing to purchase a new unit and possibly paying for another installation. The remote starter unit is only a small portion of the total cost of getting one installed. You do save a bit more if you coincidentally can keep the same security bypass module as well, but the disadvantages outweigh the savings, and will more likely cost more money in the long run.

 

My remote doesn't working. I think it needs new batteries.
- Batteries will last about 2 years, depending on use of course. Since they're inexpensive to purchase, it doesn't hurt to change them out. Even if the light on the remote flashes fairly bright, it doesn't mean that the batteries have enough power to transmit a signal to your car. if the new batteries still don't fix it, at that point it can be several problems; the remote start safety switch has been flipped, the unit is stuck in valet mode and needs to be reset, a popped fuse. A common problem with the remote starter not working is the hood pin is either damaged or corroded from the harsh winter conditions. It would also be just simple that the remote is defective and no longer functioning. Come by and we can quickly diagnose the problem on the spot.

I can unlock the doors, but the remote starter doesn't work.
- That is a common problem that tends to occur after a few years from a corroded or damaged hood pin. On most remote starters there's a switch installed to be able to turn off the remote start. This is typically used for mechanics or anyone working on your vehicle so that the remote starter doesn't accidentally get triggered. It also happens that the unit may be stuck in valet mode and needs to be reset.

My remote starter turns the car over, but it doesn't start.
- The common problem with this is that we need to increase the cranking time for the remote starter. As the weather gets colder, and as vehicles age, they need to be cranked longer to catch and start. Remote starters don't compensate for this, but they do have a set maximum cranking time that can be changed, and more likely just needs to be extended to compensate.
- Other possibilities is that it could be a problem with the security module. On some cars when it thinks it's being stolen, the security system kicks in and cuts fuel and/or spark. In this case, all that is typically needed is just to reprogram the security module. Some older units lose their programming if the battery has been disconnected or drained. In rare instance, the security module is defective and needs to be replaced.

My remote starter starts the car, but keeps cranking for several seconds, than turns the car off.
- This is almost always a problem with the unit not sensing that the car has started. Some units tap into the tachometer wire to sense that the car has started, while others can or need to be programmed to sense the car running through the voltage of the power wire. For some cars, we need to run a wire into the engine bay and tap it into the distributor, so that can get corroded over time, or even accidentally disconnected. If the unit isn't using a tach wire, it may just need to be reprogrammed for voltage sense.

I remote start the vehicle and the lights are on, but the vehicle isn't running.
- This just means that the remote starter worked, and it thinks it's running, but the motor didn't catch on crank and didn't start. This is typically a crank-time issue, where we need to extend the cranking time of the remote starter so that it properly catches and starts.

I've got a GM, and the aftermarket remote locks the car, but doesn't unlock it, or visa-versa.
- GM vehicles require a module to interface with the factory power locks. All that needs to be done is to reprogram the module, or in the rare instance, replace it.

 

What's needed to put an aftermarket radio in my vehicle?
- It actually depends on the vehicle. Typically what is needed is a trim kit to allow an aftermarket radio to fit and mount in your factory radio's pocket, and a wiring harness adaptor to connect to the factory radio harness. The wiring harness is always required. Although it's possible to cut and splice directly into it, it's a highly discouraged practice for the sake that it makes changing radios much more difficult, and it also makes the installation itself more difficult. It's not recommended to forgo the harness just to save a few bucks. However, some of the newer GM and Chryslers, a module may be required. Depending on the GM, the box is solely used to keep the chimes and a standard harness can use used if you wish you sacrifice the chimes. On later models, without the module, the vehicle loses some function and will cause the BCM to throw a code. They are also needed if the vehicle uses a factory amp and/or uses the OnStar system. On most Chryslers, a module is needed since the radio doesn't use a standard 12v system so the module is required to give the new radio the necessary power and switched 12v.
- The trim kit is needed for most vehicles, but there are some exceptions where some vehicles use the standard DIN mounting system like in Volkswagens, some BMW's, Mazda and Kia/Hyundai's. Also some Nissan and Honda's can use the factory radio mounting hardware if you're replacing a factory double DIN with an aftermarket double DIN unit.
- An added requirement on most GM, Chrysler, select Fords and European vehicles is an FM antenna adapter to allow the FM antenna to plug into the aftermarket radio, otherwise you cannot receive any radio stations.

I've got a GM/Chrysler and I'm told I need this expensive module to be able to upgrade my radio? How come?
Some of the newer GM and Chryslers require a module. Depending on the GM, the box is solely used to keep the chimes and a standard harness can use used if you wish you sacrifice the chimes.  On later models, without the module, the vehicle loses some function and will cause the BCM to throw a code when it does a systems check. They are also needed if the vehicle uses a factory amp and/or uses the OnStar system. On most Chryslers, a module is needed since the radio doesn't use a standard 12v system so the module is required to give the new radio the necessary power and switched 12v accessory.

I would like to replace my speakers, is that possible?
- Absolutely! We typically carry the most popular standard and odd-sized speakers, including 3.5", 5x7", 6x8" and 4x10" speakers. The only concern is actually the depth, specifically in the door to be able to be clear of the movement of the window and it's mechanisms.

What options are there for getting better sound quality?
- Depends on the car and how old it is. Usually we recommend to upgrade the radio first. Upgrading from the factory radio usually shows a significant improvement, mostly because having higher powered outputs as well as a better quality DAC. We find that most vehicles from around the mid-2000's and newer come with some fairly good quality speakers and a new head unit truly wakes them up. Older vehicles typically use cheaper speakers, with a smaller magnet and/or a cheap, some even paper, cone. At that point, it would be highly suggested to replace and upgrade the speakers. In the vehicle is equipped with a factory amplifier, along with their fairly common failure rate as the vehicles age, quality is usually better when the factory amp is bypassed and ran using the built-in amplifier of the new head unit. From there, the ideal setup for sound clarity would be to run a separate amplifier and setting up component speakers with tweeters and crossovers. This is the more expensive way to go, not only for the need for additional equipment, but to truly get the quality of this setup, you will also need to invest in higher-end speakers.
- Once the speakers are setup, you will need a subwoofer to specifically take care of the low frequencies that the speakers can't properly produce.
- In the end, the quality of the music comes down to the quality of the source. Spending the money on a system that uses a separate amp and getting a set of high-end component speakers with tweeters will be overkill if all you're doing is running mp3's of an iPod or listening to FM radio, cause it won't do it justice.

Can I get get an amp and sub installed in my vehicle?
- Not a problem. We sell subwoofers, amplifiers and boxes too. As well, we sell all the wiring necessary to do the installation, even if you want to do your own installation. This is a fairly easy job if you already have an aftermarket deck in the car. You can get amplifiers that can tap into the speaker lines using "line-level inputs" or you can also get low-level converter boxes to do this job. Although it's not an ideal option compared to using proper pre-outs, it is a more efficient setup. Also on some factory stereos, they lower the bass level as the volume increases. You can get low-level converter boxes that compensate for this.

I'm limited on space. What can I do for a sub?
- There's actually a few options. Pioneer, Kenwood and a few other companies make slim subwoofers that can use as little as 0.15 cubic feet of space for an 8" and 0.45cu-ft for 10" and larger. We can also get small boxes designed specifically for those subwoofers. MTX also makes what they call their "ThunderForm" boxes. They are form-fitted boxes designed to take us as little room as possible. They are typically available for the more popular pick up trucks and SUV, but they also have a few options for cars as well. They are an ideal option and can be purchased with optional subwoofers and/or amplifiers, but the downside is their significant cost of those boxes.

What size wiring do I need for my amp?
- That actually depends on the length of cable you need. Saying the average run of wires is about 16 feet, 8 gauge is good for about 100 watts (RMS), 4 gauge is good for about 600 watts (RMS) and 2 gauge up to 1400 watts RMS.

My factory radio doesn't have an auxiliary input, can you add one?
- If you do look around the internet, some radios have the ability to be hacked and modified with an auxiliary input, this isn't something we do. We do however sell adapters that interface with most factory systems. Call us at 905-732-7168 with the make and model of your car, and we can let you know what options you have available.

I want to use my iPod with my factory radio, is it possible?
- Yes it is!  We do sell adapters that interface with most factory systems. Call us at 905-732-7168 with the make and model of your car, and we can let you know what options you have available.

I want to run an amp and sub with my factory radio, is it possible?
-
It is, but it's not ideal. You can get amplifiers that can tap into the speaker lines using "line-level inputs" or you can also get low-level converter boxes to do this job. Although it's not an ideal option compared to using proper pre-outs, it is a more efficient setup. Also on some factory stereos, they lower the bass level as the volume increases. You can get low-level converter boxes that compensate for this.

Can you install Sirius/XM satellite radio systems?
- Not a problem. We have several different installation methods to suit your need, budget and vehicle. Our popular choice is a hard-wired setup where we hide all the wires and use an in-line FM direct adapter. Since most factory radios do not have an auxiliary input, the other option is through the FM radio. Because of possible FM interference causing either significant static to loss of clear audio, especially when travelling, the in-line adapter makes the satellite radio signal a priority for a much more stable signal. On GM, Chrysler, European cars and some Fords, additional antenna adapters are necessary.

 

My factory CD player doesn't work anymore, can that be fixed?
- Unfortunately that's not something we can fix. Some dealerships will take them in to get them fixed, but they're typically sent out to a third-party company to get repaired.

My CD player doesn't want to eject my CD, is there a way to take it out?
- Not likely. A few aftermarket CD players will have reset options, but for ejecting a stuck CD, especially if the unit is no longer working properly, is rare for that to work. On both factory and aftermarket players, you can try unplugging the unit and plugging them back in, sometimes that does the trick. You can send the units out for service, but unless it's covered under warranty, there will more likely be a charge for that service. Even then, it can take months to receive your discs back. The quickest option would be to totally disassemble the unit to take the disc out. This would normally be destructive since putting the disc is quite buried in the unit and putting it back together properly is a science in itself. At this point, depending on the age of the player, it may be wise to look at getting a replacement CD player regardless since it may be on it's way out.

Someone had upgraded the radio upgraded in my car but they cut the factory harness.
- This is one of the reasons why we highly recommend to use an adapter harness when installing an aftermarket radio because it makes changing it afterwards a job more complex than it needs to be. This is unfortunately was done by the previous owner only to save a few bucks. Ideally we would recommend going to a wreckers and get a factory harness to reattach and fix what was done, but we also can order aftermarket harnesses with factory connectors that would do the same job. If you're looking at getting a new aftermarket radio installed by us anyway, we have resources that tell us what wires are what so we can attach the new radio harness to the cut factory harness. It's not an ideal solution, but we can definitely make it work.

I'm not getting any sounds in some/all of my speakers.
- Could be a few things. The common problem is usually just blown speakers. If that's not the case, the next step would be to check the wiring if the head unit and/or the speakers have been replaced. One thing that does happen is that the wires running through the door harness may be worn, cut or broken. If you're running the system through a factory amplifier, there's a good chance that the amp is failing. A good sign of this is if you've lost a pair of speakers at the same time. If you're running an external amplifier with component speakers, it's a lot of extra work to trace back any problems, especially if you've got a crossover and tweeters wired in as well.

My vehicle has a factory amplifier and I'm not getting any sound in some/all of my speakers.
- If you're running the system through a factory amplifier, there's a good chance that the amp is failing. A good sign of this is if you've lost a pair of speakers at the same time. Some vehicles sometime use a built-in amp for the front speakers and an external amp for the rear speakers, or some will use 3 separate amps, one for the front, one for the rear, and one for the factory subwoofer. Some vehicles will use a single amplifier to run all the speakers plus the factory subwoofer.

My aftermarket radio is saying "PROTECT", what does that mean?
- What that means is that there is a short somewhere in the speaker system and the deck turns off to protect itself. This could be a blown speaker or typically it's a short in the wires for the speakers. Although it's rare, on the newer GM that require a module to keep the door chimes this could be a defect in the box, but first thing would be to recheck the wiring for the speakers, both on the side of the radio, and if you have replaced the speakers, the wiring on those as well. A common problem is that they're improperly taped, where the tape has some off, even slightly, where bare wire is being exposed. It could be grounding to another wire or part of the metal chassis behind the dash. This problem could be in the door and being exposed to moisture or even getting caught on the window mechanism. Another thing that most would tape up the entire harness to keep it together and organized, but sometimes this will pull the wires together too tight. This can definitely be the case if the wires have been soldered. Although this is good practice, the solder creates sharp points that may actually puncture any tape or shrink wrap that they've been sealed in.

My amp keeps on blowing fuses on the power line, what's wrong?
- If it's blowing fuses as soon as it's being plugged in and/or turned on, than it would be suggested to check for shorts in the power wire or even a blown speaker where the coil is seized. If the system runs but blows fuses every few days or weeks, than it's one of 2 things; either an insufficient ground or the size of the power wire is too small. In either case, they are causing a restriction on the flow of power. What ends up happening is because power is being restricted, and because your amp requires what it needs, it naturally just draws more and more from the electrical system eventually blows a fuse.
- To fix this, first check the ground. It should be bolted down to a solid point to bare metal and the ground wire needs to be as short as possible. If there's paint on the metal where the ground is mounted, it needs to be striped for a proper metal-to-metal contact and not a screw for a trim panel or the like.
- Secondly, check the power terminal at the battery. It needs to be properly connected and bolted down. A common problem is a ring terminal that's too large for the bolt on the positive post on the battery and it's barely making contact.
- And finally, check the power and ground wires themselves. It's possible that the wire you choose isn't the right size for the job. Saying the average run of wires is about 16 feet, 8 gauge is good for about 100 watts (RMS), 4 gauge is good for about 600 watts (RMS) and 2 gauge up to 1400 watts RMS. The quality of the wire matters as well. Cheap cable can have less wires in it. A cheap 4 gauge cable, although may be the same physical diameter as a good quality one, can actually have less actual wires in it, comparing to a 6 or even an 8 gauge. Going with a larger cable than needed not only ensures you have enough power for the job, but also leaves room to expand if you wish you upgrade your system, but saves you the work of re-running your power and ground connections.

I am constantly blowing up subwoofers, what's going on?
- Usually it's either 2 things, too much power, or a bad setup. Your subwoofer is only capable of handling so much power, so of course running too much power will cook your sub. This is really only possible if your amplifier is able to put out more power than the sub can handle. This isn't a bad thing; having a more powerful amp means it's not working as hard and running more efficiently, but also means there's no safeguards against turning the gain up too much and blowing up the sub. Check the RMS power ratings on both the amp and sub to make sure what they are able to handle.
- Secondly, bad audio can actually break a subwoofer. What ends up happening is that there is too much clipping or distortion. Normally this is when the head unit is set to such options as "Loudness", "Bass Boost" and other areas in the audio settings and/or EQ where the bass has been turned up significantly (ie: "Bass +15"). This could also happen when an improperly set Low Pass Filter (LPF) where the sub is getting audio signals that it can't produce. Setting up the head unit properly is necessary for not only an enjoyable listening experience, but to keep your equipment working for a long time.

My satellite radio sound quality is poor and/or there is a lot of static.
- Most satellite radio setups use the built-in FM transmitter. They are setup by default to use stations low on the band, like 88.1MHz and such. On most satellite radio units, you can program it to use any station on the FM band. For the best reception, you want to use an FM station that isn't being used by a radio station. If you use a frequency that is being used, it will interfere with your satellite radio and severely affect the quality of your music. Also, your chosen station may work well in your area, but once you travel a considerable distance, that frequency may actually be used by a radio station and you will need to change the station that the FM transmitter on the satellite radio, as well as changing the stations on your radio to match. This can be quite annoying for those travelling thousands of kilometers through highly populated areas.
- One fix for this is to use the in-line FM direct adapter. This literally wires in the FM transmitter in to your vehicles antenna giving priority to the output of the satellite radio. A less popular option is to use a cassette tape adapter
- Ideally, a hard-wired direct input solution going through the radio's auxiliary input or dedicated satellite radio input on the radio. This will not only give you undisturbed listening pleasure, but also the highest quality audio quality attainable from the satellite radio system.
- For more information on audio options, see the Sirius information page here: http://www.sirius.com/servlet/ContentServer?pagename=Sirius/CachedPage&c=FlexContent&cid=1173752921558